Blue eyed leucistic ball pythons are among the most visually stunning snakes in the hobby — an all-white body paired with vivid blue eyes that make them instantly recognisable in any collection. Having worked with ball python morphs for over a decade, I’d put the BEL python in the top tier for pure visual impact. But their rarity means getting your hands on one takes patience, and their price reflects the complexity involved in breeding them reliably.
The good news: once you have one, blue eyed leucistic ball python care is no more demanding than any other ball python morph. This guide covers everything you need — enclosure, temperatures, humidity, diet, and handling — based on real keeper experience.
Table of Contents
- Quick Care Reference
- Species Summary
- What Makes Them So Rare?
- Appearance and Colours
- Blue Eyed Leucistic Ball Python Size
- Lifespan
- Blue Eyed Leucistic Ball Python Care
- Enclosure Size
- What To Put In Their Habitat
- Temperature and Lighting
- Humidity
- Water
- Food and Diet
- Potential Health Issues
- Behaviour and Temperament
- Handling
- Frequently Asked Questions
- How much does a blue eyed leucistic ball python cost?
- What is the difference between a blue eyed leucistic and an albino ball python?
- Are blue eyed leucistic ball pythons good for beginners?
- How rare is a blue eyed leucistic ball python?
- Do blue eyed leucistic ball pythons have health problems?
- Why is my blue eyed leucistic ball python not eating?
- Conclusion
Quick Care Reference
| Parameter | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Scientific name | Python regius (morph) |
| Common names | Blue Eyed Leucistic, BEL Python, Blue-Eyed Lucy |
| Adult size | 3–5 feet; females occasionally reach 6 feet |
| Lifespan | 20–30 years in captivity |
| Experience level | Beginner–Intermediate |
| Enclosure (adult) | 40 gallon / 36″ × 18″ × 16″ minimum |
| Basking temperature | 88–92°F (31–33°C) |
| Warm side ambient | 82–83°F (28°C) |
| Cool side | 76–80°F (24–27°C) |
| Night minimum | 75°F (24°C) |
| Humidity | 50–60% |
| Feeding (adults) | One medium rat every 10–14 days |
| Feeding (juveniles) | One appropriately-sized mouse every 7–10 days |
| UVB | Not required; low-level optional |
| Price range | $400–$1,500+ depending on quality and lineage |
Species Summary
The blue eyed leucistic ball python isn’t a distinct species — it’s a rare morph of the standard ball python (Python regius), produced through multi-generational selective breeding. Since ball pythons entered the hobby in the 1980s, breeders have developed thousands of colour morphs through selective pairings. The BEL python is widely considered one of the most beautiful results of that process.
The name says it all — a white or near-white body combined with vivid blue eyes. That second trait is what separates leucistic ball pythons from albinos: albinos have red or pink eyes due to the absence of all pigment, while leucistic snakes retain their eye pigmentation. The result is one of the most striking colour combinations in the reptile world.
What Makes Them So Rare?
There’s a reason why you don’t see too many blue eyed leucistic ball pythons as pet snakes. They’re incredibly difficult to breed — and I say that as someone who has worked with complex multi-gene ball python projects for years. The BEL python requires the genes of not one or two morphs, but five, across multiple generations.
Leucism is a condition that results in the partial loss of pigmentation. Standard leucistic snakes have patches of white while retaining normal colouration elsewhere — that’s what distinguishes leucism from albinism. The BEL python takes this further, with full-body white pigmentation loss while retaining the blue eye colour.
To produce a genuine BEL python, breeders work with pairings from five different morphs:
- Mojave ball pythons
- Lesser ball pythons
- Butter ball pythons
- Het russo ball pythons
- Phantom ball pythons
Breeder Note: None of those parent morphs are wild-type animals either — it took considerable selective breeding history just to establish them. Producing a BEL python often takes up to four generations of careful pairings. That generational investment is directly reflected in the price tag.
Appearance and Colours
Blue eyed leucistic ball pythons are easy to identify. Their defining features are the white body and icy blue eyes — the two things buyers look for first.
Some specimens have cream-coloured skin, faint yellow patches, or a beige-yellow band running down the spine. These are still BEL pythons, typically from earlier-generation breeding projects where full leucism hasn’t been completely expressed yet. They’re generally less sought-after than pure white specimens but are significantly more affordable — and in my experience, still excellent pets with no difference in temperament or care requirements.
Breeder Note: The blue eyes are the critical identifier. It’s what separates the leucistic from its albino cousins — albinos have red or pink eyes; BEL pythons have vivid blue. If the eyes aren’t clearly blue, you may be looking at a different morph.
Beyond the colour, BEL pythons look like every other ball python — girthy constrictors with triangular heads and broad snouts. The heat-sensing pits along the snout are more visible on white specimens than on darker morphs, which can look unusual to new owners. This is completely normal.
Blue Eyed Leucistic Ball Python Size
The average adult size is 3–5 feet. Females are typically larger than males and occasionally reach 6 feet, though this is at the upper end. Males usually reach full adult size by 3 years; females a little later.
At hatch, most BEL pythons measure around 10 inches. Growth is moderate — by the 2–3 year mark most will be around 3 feet. Width-wise they’re stocky and muscular, as you’d expect from a constrictor. Obesity is a genuine concern with captive ball pythons, so maintaining a consistent feeding schedule and not overfeeding is important throughout their life.
Expert Tip: Use the snake’s body condition as your guide — you should be able to feel the spine slightly but not see it prominently. A visibly triangular cross-section when viewed from above is a sign of underfeeding; a rounded, soft appearance with no definition suggests overfeeding.
Lifespan
With proper care, blue eyed leucistic ball pythons live 20–30 years in captivity. Ball pythons as a species are long-lived — there are documented cases of captive specimens reaching 40+ years, though those are outliers. The BEL morph carries no known genetic health issues that would shorten this lifespan, which is not the case for all designer morphs.
A 20–30 year commitment is worth taking seriously before acquiring one of these snakes. They’re not a short-term pet.
Blue Eyed Leucistic Ball Python Care
BEL python care follows the same fundamentals as any ball python — these snakes have no special requirements unique to their morph. Get the temperatures, humidity, and feeding schedule right and they’re very forgiving animals.
Enclosure Size
Ball pythons don’t need enormous enclosures. Hatchlings do well in a 10-gallon setup; juveniles (6 months to 3 years) in a 20-gallon. Adults need a minimum of 40 gallons — standard dimensions of approximately 36″ × 18″ × 16″.
Glass terrariums, PVC reptile enclosures, and opaque plastic tubs all work well. Plastic tubs are a favourite among serious ball python keepers because they retain humidity well and give the snake the privacy it needs to feel secure. Glass enclosures look better on display but require more work to maintain appropriate humidity — worth it for a morph this visually striking, in my opinion, but make sure you create adequate hiding opportunities inside.
Expert Tip: Ball pythons generally feel more secure in an enclosure that feels snug rather than vast. Oversizing the enclosure — particularly for juveniles — can cause feeding refusals and stress. Match the enclosure size to the snake’s current size and upgrade as it grows.
What To Put In Their Habitat
Hide boxes are the single most important addition — provide two, positioned at opposite ends of the enclosure (one on the warm side, one on the cool side). Ball pythons spend most of their time in hides, and a snake that doesn’t have adequate hiding will be chronically stressed regardless of how well other parameters are maintained.
Beyond hides, add branches, cork bark, fake or live plants, and clutter to make the space feel secure. This is particularly important in glass enclosures where the snake has full visibility of its surroundings. A water dish large enough for the snake to soak in should always be available.
For substrate, cypress mulch or organic topsoil are the best choices — both hold humidity well and allow some natural burrowing behaviour. Avoid substrates with additives, pesticides, or perlite. Reptile carpet and paper towels work if you prefer easier cleaning, but they don’t support humidity as effectively.
Temperature and Lighting
Ball pythons are nocturnal and do not require UVB lighting, though a low-output UVB source won’t cause harm and may provide some benefit. What they absolutely require is a proper temperature gradient:
| Zone | Temperature |
|---|---|
| Basking spot | 88–92°F (31–33°C) |
| Warm side ambient | 82–83°F (28°C) |
| Cool side | 76–80°F (24–27°C) |
| Night minimum | 75°F (24°C) |
Use an under-tank heat mat or a low-wattage basking lamp connected to a quality thermostat. A thermostat is non-negotiable — running a heat source without one risks overheating and thermal burns. Verify all temperatures with a digital probe thermometer rather than relying on the thermostat display alone.
Expert Tip: Don’t let the enclosure drop below 75°F at night. On cold nights, a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) on a separate thermostat maintains overnight warmth without producing any light that would disrupt the snake’s nocturnal activity pattern.
If using a light source for display purposes, set it on a timer and maintain a consistent 12-hour day/night cycle. Keep the enclosure away from windows — solar heating is unpredictable and makes temperature management much harder.
Humidity
Target 50–60% relative humidity. This is the most important environmental parameter to monitor consistently — too low and you’ll see incomplete sheds (dysecdysis); too high for sustained periods can contribute to respiratory infections and scale rot.
Cypress mulch or topsoil substrate holds moisture between misting sessions and keeps humidity more stable than paper-based substrates. Light misting of the enclosure walls every few days tops up humidity as needed. A digital hygrometer with a probe placed at substrate level gives you the most accurate reading of conditions where the snake actually spends its time.
Expert Tip: Increase humidity to 60–70% in the 1–2 weeks leading up to a shed — you’ll notice the snake’s eyes turn a bluish-grey colour (called “going into blue”) as the shed approaches. A moist hide filled with damp sphagnum moss during this period gives the snake exactly what it needs for a clean, complete shed.
Water
Provide a water dish large enough for the snake to curl into for soaking — ball pythons use soaking as a primary method of hydration and it helps significantly during shed cycles. Refresh the water every 2–3 days and disinfect the dish weekly. If the snake defecates in the dish, clean it immediately.
Food and Diet
In the wild, ball pythons feed on small mammals and occasionally birds. In captivity, frozen/thawed mice and rats are the standard — and in my experience with breeding projects, pre-killed or frozen/thawed prey is always preferable to live feeding. Live rodents can and do injure snakes, sometimes causing infections that require veterinary treatment. The risk simply isn’t worth it.
Always thaw frozen prey to room temperature before offering — a cold or partially frozen meal can cause digestive problems and will often be refused. Here’s the feeding schedule to follow by age:
- Hatchlings: Pinky or small fuzzy mice every 5–7 days
- Juveniles (6 months–3 years): Appropriately-sized mice or small rats every 7–10 days. Prey should be no wider than the broadest part of the snake’s body
- Adults: Medium rats every 10–14 days. Scale up or down based on body condition
Expert Tip: Ball pythons are notorious for feeding strikes — periods of days, weeks, or even months where they refuse food. This is normal behaviour, particularly around seasonal changes, shedding cycles, or when environmental parameters have shifted. Don’t panic and don’t start force-feeding unless the snake is visibly losing significant condition and weight. In most cases, patience and stable husbandry resolve a feeding strike on their own.
Potential Health Issues
The BEL python is one of the healthier designer morphs — it carries no known increased risk of genetic health issues compared to standard ball pythons. This is notably not true of all morphs; the spider morph is associated with neurological wobble syndrome, and the lemon frost with iridophoroma. BEL pythons avoid these problems entirely.
The health issues to be aware of are the same as any ball python:
- Mites and external parasites — most common in wild-caught animals or snakes from poor-quality sources. Quarantine any new snake for 30–60 days before introducing it near existing animals. See our guide on snake mites for identification and treatment
- Respiratory infections — usually caused by temperatures that are too low or humidity that is too high. Signs include wheezing, open-mouth breathing, and mucus around the nostrils. Requires veterinary treatment
- Scale rot — caused by prolonged contact with wet substrate or excessively high humidity. Maintain clean, appropriately moist (not wet) substrate and this is entirely preventable
- Inclusion body disease (IBD) — a serious viral infection with no cure. It spreads through contact with infected animals. Always quarantine new snakes and wash hands between handling different animals
- Incomplete shed (dysecdysis) — caused by insufficient humidity. Retained eye caps are particularly dangerous and should be addressed promptly. A warm soak and increased humidity resolve most incomplete sheds
Behaviour and Temperament
Ball pythons are one of the most docile snake species kept in captivity, and BEL pythons are no exception. They’re sedentary animals that spend most daylight hours in their hides, becoming more active after dark when they naturally hunt. Don’t be alarmed if you rarely see your snake during the day — this is completely normal.
In cooler seasons, ball pythons can enter a period of reduced activity and appetite that resembles a mild quasi-hibernation. This is natural behaviour — reduce feeding frequency rather than trying to force normal activity. Maintain stable temperatures throughout and the snake will resume normal activity as conditions change.
Never house two ball pythons together. These are solitary animals that only interact to breed. Cohabitation causes chronic stress for both animals, increases disease transmission risk, and occasionally results in one snake attempting to eat the other.
Handling
Ball pythons are generally relaxed about handling once trust is established — it’s one of the reasons they make such good pets. New snakes, however, need time to settle. Give a newly acquired BEL python at least 1–2 weeks to adjust to its enclosure before attempting handling, and don’t handle within 48 hours of feeding.
Start with brief sessions of 5–10 minutes, letting the snake move across your hands rather than gripping it. Build up duration gradually as the snake becomes more comfortable. Most ball pythons become noticeably calmer after a few weeks of consistent, gentle handling.
Bites are rare with ball pythons but can occur, usually when the snake mistakes a warm hand for prey during feeding time. Avoid handling immediately before or after feeding, and wash your hands before reaching into the enclosure to remove feeding scent.
Always wash hands after handling — standard hygiene practice for any reptile.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does a blue eyed leucistic ball python cost?
Blue eyed leucistic ball pythons typically cost between $400 and $1,500 for captive-bred animals, with exceptional specimens from proven lines commanding more. The high price reflects the complexity of producing them — the BEL morph requires genes from five different morphs across multiple breeding generations. Lower-priced specimens with cream colouration rather than pure white are still genuine BEL pythons and make excellent pets at a more accessible price point.
What is the difference between a blue eyed leucistic and an albino ball python?
The key difference is eye colour and pigmentation type. Albino (amelanistic) ball pythons lack melanin entirely — they have yellow and white scales with red or pink eyes. Blue eyed leucistic ball pythons have a condition called leucism, which results in full-body white pigmentation loss while retaining eye pigmentation — producing vivid blue eyes rather than red. The blue eyes are the defining feature that distinguishes BEL pythons from albinos.
Are blue eyed leucistic ball pythons good for beginners?
Yes — BEL pythons have no special care requirements beyond standard ball python husbandry. They’re docile, manageable in size, and forgiving of minor environmental variation. The main barrier to beginners is cost rather than care difficulty. If budget allows, a BEL python is a perfectly appropriate choice for a first snake keeper who is willing to research ball python husbandry properly before acquiring one.
How rare is a blue eyed leucistic ball python?
They are genuinely rare compared to most ball python morphs. Producing a BEL python requires combining genes from five different morphs across up to four generations of selective breeding — none of which are wild-type animals themselves. Captive-bred BEL pythons are available from specialist breeders but are never the kind of morph you’d find commonly in a pet store. Their rarity and the breeding effort required are the primary reasons for their high price.
Do blue eyed leucistic ball pythons have health problems?
No — the BEL python is one of the healthier designer morphs. Unlike some ball python morphs (spider morph neurological wobble, lemon frost iridophoroma), the BEL python carries no known genetic health issues specific to its morph. It is susceptible to the same husbandry-related conditions as all ball pythons — respiratory infections, scale rot, mites, and incomplete sheds — all of which are preventable with correct care.
Why is my blue eyed leucistic ball python not eating?
Feeding strikes are extremely common in ball pythons and are rarely a cause for concern. Common triggers include seasonal temperature changes, approaching shed cycles, stress from a recent move or enclosure change, and incorrect temperatures or humidity. Most feeding strikes resolve on their own within 2–8 weeks. Maintain stable husbandry, offer prey at the correct temperature, and be patient. See our full guide on why your ball python won’t eat for a detailed troubleshooting breakdown.
Conclusion
The blue eyed leucistic ball python is one of the most visually rewarding snakes in the hobby — and the care behind that stunning appearance is genuinely manageable once you have the fundamentals in place. Get the temperatures and humidity right, feed consistently, and give your BEL python adequate hides and it will thrive for decades.
For further reading, see our complete ball python care guide, our breakdown of all 63 ball python morphs, and our guide on why ball pythons stop eating — one of the most common questions from new BEL python owners.
